Wanted to share a recap of my trip to Paris. It’s a bit long but I hope it’s useful to others.
WHEN: November 19 – 23
WHO: me, my mom, daughter and aunt
WHY: my mom’s b-day
FLIGHT: Easy Jet – from Madrid to Paris
PRICE: 60 euros round trip per person with no check in luggage, which would have cost 7,50 each.
I’ve flown them before and find them to be a great budget carrier. For a fee you can purchase drinks and snacks. Also no assigned seating so first come first served.
Our transatlantic flight from the US to Madrid was via American Airlines direct. We had mileage points for 2 tickets, each 40,000 points and 1 ticket we paid $550 USD. We went there first to visit family.
HOTEL: Excelsior Latin Quarter
PRICE: 102 euros for a superior quad
The hotel is a basic budget hotel with great prices but needs to be renovated. Check out my detailed review on TA for more info.
RESTAURANTS:
Relais de l’Entrecote Restaurant on 20, rue Saint-Benoit, Tel # 45 49 16 00.
L’Ecluse on 15, Place de la Madeleine, Tel # 42 65 34 69
Lenotre Pavillon Elysee on 10, Champs Elysees, Tel # 42 65 85 10
Chez l%26#39;Ami Jean, 27 rue Malar , Tel# 47 05 86 89
We have all visited Paris before so our itinerary is a combination of some popular attractions and some not so popular ones.
Day 1 -
We arrived in Paris around 7 pm and it was raining. We had plans to take the RER B line from the airport to the Luxembourg stop, but it was closed due to the strikes. We ended up taking a taxi to the hotel which came out to about 35 euros and for a half hour.
After checking in at the hotel, we walked to le Relais de l’Entrecote Restaurant. We had eaten here before and were anxious to go back as it’s one of our favorites. The walk was about 15-20 minutes and got there around 9 pm. It was pretty full and we were the only non French speaking table that night. The set menu was less per then 20 euros per person.
For desert we had a crepe at the stand next to St. Germain church. The crepe was nutella and chantilly for 4,50 euros. We ended up going back to this crepe place several times through out our trip and found them to have the best tasting crepes.
Day 2 -
Our second day was a day full of rain and closed attractions.
We started off with breakfast at a Croissontarie near the hotel, on St. Michel Boulevard. It came out to less than 5 euros per person and everyone ate plenty.
We ended up staying around the LQ area because of the rain and transportation issue. We bought umbrellas for 5 euros each which came in handy.
We checked out the open market near the St. Michel Place. Although it’s a small market they sell everything – cheeses, hams, meats, seafood, jewelry, scarves, handbags and clothing. We found some of the items to be a bit expensive but tried to haggle a bit for a discount. I believe the market only opens till 1 pm.
We visited St. Severin which is a nice gothic church with great stained glass windows and gargoyles, like Notre Dame.
We tried to check out nearby St-Julien-le-Pauvre, which I understand it to be the oldest church in Paris. Unfortunately, it was closed, not sure why. We walked around the garden behind it which has fantastic views of Notre Dame.
We tried to check out the Cluny Museum but since they were closed on Tuesdays we couldn’t go in. The Sorbonne was also closed, but it was because of the strikes. There were a couple of protestors out at front and plenty of police officers ready for riots. But it was all under control.
We walked over to the Patheon which had the top section closed off as well, I think it was because it was being refurbished and we decided to skip the crypts below. The entrance to the crypts was about 7 euros.
For lunch we ate at a Greek Restaurant on Rue de la Huchette. There are several Greek places to choose from. I can’t remember the name of the restaurant but it’s not worth it. It looked pretty interesting from the outside and offered a set menu of 11 euros for 2 courses.
After lunch, we headed to Notre Dame for a quick view inside and afterwards we walked up Rue di Rivoli and stopped at Angelina’s Tea House. They absolutely have the best Hot Chocolate ever! We ordered 3 but the waiter came out with 4 cups so we all drank and we only paid for the 3. I think it was about 6,50 euros for each. We also ordered the Mont Blanc which none of us enjoyed, another 6,50 for that.
We walked around the area a bit and made reservations to have dinner that evening at L’Ecluse. We all loved this restaurant and highly recommend it. We sat in the back room which is like an enclosed courtyard full of windows. We ordered a couple of plates to share which included a Quiche of Salmon and Broccoli (delicious!), a plate of different cheeses, a plate of hams, sausages and pates, an Onion Soup and a bottle of wine. The total amount came out to less than 80 euros and there was plenty left over. Everything was excellent, including the service.
From the restaurant we walked back to the hotel stopping along the way at bus stops to take rest.
Day 3 –
We woke up to a beautiful day! Clear, sunny skies and no rain. We started off with breakfast at Pomme des Pain, on St. Michel Boulevard. It came out to less than 5 euros per person and we ate plenty.
We walked over to a taxi stop near the Luxembourg Gardens and after waiting for about 5 minutes took a taxi over to Place Pigalle. We took a taxi since the buses and metros were still not running regularly. We spent the morning and afternoon around Montmartre.
We started off by passing in front of Bateau-Lavoir which is supposed to be the cradle of cubism and where Picasso lived when he painted The Third Rose. It was closed so we couldn%26#39;t go in.
We continued on to see Espace Dali where there is a lithograph of his famous Don Quixote. I think the entrance was 10 euros.
We took a break at Place du Tertre for some beers. While sitting at one of the outdoor cafes a painter approached me. He started off by saying that my face has inspired him and that he wanted to paint me. If I would have it would have fallen for his line it would have cost me 160 euros for a caricature drawing.
After our break we visited St. Pierre and Sacre Coeur. We then headed to Musée de Vieux Montmartre but decided to skip it since we were all getting hungry for lunch.
For lunch we stopped at an Italian Piano Bar restaurant near Place du Tertre. I forgot the name. Lunch was a set menu of 10 euros, we had a first plate of onion soup and salad and a second plate of pizza. Really not much to write about.
After lunch we walked around the Cimetière de Montmartre, which I find it to be a very fascinating place, although the rest of my group thought it to be creepy.
And then we headed off to Boulevard de Clichy and passed by the Moulin Rouge. This is the area of Paris that I like the least and don’t care much to return to again. We took a break at a café across the street from the Moulin Rouge, which was expensive and horrible, also the outside tables and chairs all chained together since people tend to leave with them (or that’s the story the waiter told us).
Afterwards we walk to the Trinite Church which is lovely and then head towards the Opera house.
At night we had reservations at Lenotre Pavillon Elysee. We decided to splurge for dinner since it was my mom’s B-Day. We started off with a bottle of the Rose Champagne for 70 euros at the bar. Dinner consisted of Cream of Pumpkin Soup and Pate as starters – both were absolutely excellent and then we followed it with Scallops, Vegetable Rigatoni and Risotto with Beetroot. The best of all was the Scallops. We ordered a bottle of wine and the total bill for dinner was about 50 euros per person. This restaurant is also a cooking school which I wouldn’t mind next time taking a class or two. They also sell cook books (in French) and very nice kitchen wear items. The restaurant is excellent and highly recommend it.
On our way back to the hotel we passed the Petit and Grand Palais, Pont Alexander III and Hotel des Invalides. It was nice to walk by them at night, they were well lit up and no herds of tourist.
This day was a long and exhausting day for us. The only transportation we took was the taxi in the morning so we ended up walking all the way from Montmartre to the hotel near the Luxembourg Gardens with some stops along the way.
Day 4 –
Luckily we had another glorious day with sunny skies and no rain.
Initially we were going to spend the day walking around le Marais, but had a change of plan and decided to make it a slow one since the day before was so tiring.
We started off late and had breakfast around 11 am at Segafredo’s on St. Germain. And then walked around the 7th.
We had planned to have lunch at Chez l%26#39;Ami Jean, but by the time we got there it was around 2:30 pm and the last lunch they served was at 2. It’s a cozy restaurant off of St. Dominique which had been recommended to me. 3 course dinner is about 30 euros.
We decide to stop at a supper market and boulangerie on St. Dominique to pick up some items for a picnic on Champs de Mars. The picnic was by far the best lunch we had in Paris, and the cheapest one. In total we spent about 25 euros and had left over food that we kept as snacks for the following day. The amount we paid included a bottle of wine, plastic cups, forks and knives, ham, cheese, pate, olives, baguettes and a cucumber salad.
While we ate at a bench facing the Eiffel Tower we had some of those gypsies come to ask if we spoke English. Of course we were aware (thanks to TA members) that they had some type of scam going on. We must have seen about 7 of them in total.
Afterwards we took a boat cruise on the river. We crossed from the Eiffel and went down the stairs near the Pont Diem. We picked up our tickets for the 7 pm tour which came out to 10 euros per person. We had about an hour to kill and hung out at the restaurant next door which is in a boat. We ordered a bottle of wine, which was only 10 euros and drank it at the outside section while looking at the Eiffel light up at night. It was very lovely and relaxing.
After the cruise we walked back to Chez l’Ami Jean for dinner but unfortunately, they were packed and wouldn’t take us since we had no reservation. I definitely, want to try to eat there next time as it seems like a popular eatery with the locals and had been well recommended. I believe the menu is basque.
We ended up walking down Saint Dominique and stopped at an Irish Pub restaurant, I believe it’s called Le Recruitment? The restaurant was filled and not too shabby. We ordered a salad with goat cheese and potatoes and filet with fries which was excellent and a round of beers. It was about 20 euros per person.
That night on the way back to the hotel, someone in the group wasn’t feeling very well and we were desperately trying to find a taxi to drive us back. Unfortunately, we only found 1 who wouldn’t take us because we were a group of 4. So we kept on walking all the way to St. Germain. There we found a bus stop and luckily one came by that dropped us off at L’Odean. From there it was about a 10 minute walk to the hotel. That was the only bus we had seen in the area through out our trip except while in Montmartre there we saw the local bus a couple of times.
When we got to the hotel the clerk asked us if we need transportation to the airport. We asked if the RER B line was open and it was still closed so we asked for him to call a taxi. He tried calling a taxi but they all refused saying they couldn’t commit to pick up since they were so busy due to the transportation issue. He offered to call a shuttle bus that would pick us up and drive us to the airport for 17 euros each. We caved in since the options were limited. We paid 40 euros up front to the hotel clerk and the balance to the driver when he picked us up.
Day 5 –
For breakfast we ended up at Segafredo’s again because we found them to have the best coffee and croissants. Afterwards we walked around the Luxembourg Gardens. Our time was limited since we had to be at the airport by noon and we had made arrangements for the shuttle to pick us up by 11 am.
The shuttle bus arrived late, around 11:15 and while we were waiting we found out that the RER B was up and running but decided to wait a couple more minutes just in case the shuttle showed up. We took the shuttle which was horrible. The bus smelled like an ashtray and the driver smelled like he had dome some heavy drinking the night before. I said a mental prayer and thank god we arrived to the airport on time and safely.
The checking in at Orly and passing the security check point was quick and painless.
At the airport we picked up a couple of sandwiches which were great (serrano ham, provolone cheese, tomato and basil) and some croque monsieurs (not so great).
Our trip to Paris was OK but I have enjoyed Paris more on other occasions because of the strikes and weather. Personally, I don’t think I’ll go back during this time of year. I’ve been in Paris before and I think the best time to go is late spring or during the summer time.
If you are planning to go in November, I recommend taking layers. Although it was raining, on the days that were sunny it did get a bit warm when we walked around with our heavy winter coats. On some occasions we had to take them off while walking around. So it’s best to wear a sweater underneath. You should also take extra shoes (in case they get soaked), umbrellas, hats (so your hair doesn’t get wet if you don’t have an umbrella) and waterproof coats. I think the puffy nylon coats with hoodies are much more practical than the heavier wool winter coats. They way less and keep you warm and they are usually water proof.
If by chance you happen to go during a strike, plan on staying in a hotel towards the center. Although our hotel had a good location, it was very far away with out metro or bus.
I recommend taking a long list of recommended restaurants in your budget range for all areas and plan out your day so you don’t end up at a hit or miss place. If you can%26#39;t find a recommended place go to the supermarket and make your own food. For the price it%26#39;s much better.
My other opinion is that next time I go to Paris, I won’t go for less than 7 days. Personally, It’s not worth going for less. To me, Paris is a city to enjoy leisurely. I hate the marathon days of none stop sight seeing. Also, take time to visit the many gardens, squares and fountains. And if I go for more than 7 days I’m going to try and rent an apartment so I can fix up some of my own meals. I would try to pick an apartment near a supermarket and or open market as well as next to a bus and metro stop.
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Wonderful report! I have jotted down the restaurants you listed and will try to visit a few of them when my Mother and I are in Paris next week (wow, next week already! I%26#39;m so excited - it will be our first visit to Paris). Your report has been very helpful; thanks for taking the time to include so much information. I have altered my packing plans and will be packing for layering for sure. Thanks again.
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I%26#39;m glad it came in handy.
Before our trip I felt like we were waiting an eternity for the day to come. And while we were there it went by so fast. I hope you enjoy your trip with your mother. As you know time flies when your having fun :)
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This was a joy to read. Thank you for the amount of detail you reported. I will be in Paris for New Year%26#39;s and your post has helped me with a few ideas. Thanks.
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Good to read that you had a nice time. I agree that, given the choice, you should try to come at for at least a week or so.
The Segafredo you mention a few times is in fact a coffee brand (Segafredo Zanetti Espresso) - most likely not the name of the café. You may have seen it printed on the coffee cups, sugar cubes, etc.
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JanToo - I know Segafredo is a coffee brand but coincidentally it%26#39;s the only sign outside of the coffee shop. I didn%26#39;t see any other name just the sign outside, big in red letters.
In Miami, we have a Segafredo too.
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congratulation about your report and about choosing easyjet as transporter ... but about the restaurants, not at all. It%26#39;s your choice of course, and you are free to do it. But it%26#39;s not the way to discover the french food ...And moreover the greek restaurants at rue de la Huchette are a terrific experience ...Glad you were not sik ....But once again, it was your choice and most of american tourists would be happy to have a more parisian food experience ...
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Phileptrus the Greek restaurant was a bad choice, but the restaurants I listed at the beginning are all really good. I was in a group and it was some elses choice to eat there and trust me the Greek one was not my choice. Anyways we were tired and in the neighborhood and the place looked decent and offered a good price.
As they say you live and learn, it%26#39;s all about the experience. Even some French restaurants aren%26#39;t always the best in Paris (no offense)...but then there are some other ethnic restaurants in Paris that are suppose to be outstanding like the L’As due Fallafel.
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